I've had a Blank Slate and hangboard [http://xdumaine.com/the-blank-slate-hangboard/] for a little over a year now, going through various periods of more-or-less actual rock climbing, so I'm going to take a look at how much I use the hangboard, on what schedule, and how.

For a while, I've just been doing general training [http://xdumaine.com/grip-training-crimps/] on my hangboard [http://xdumaine.com/the-blank-slate-hangboard/]. I recently listened to a HanselMinutes podcast [http://hanselminutes.com/345/world-class-climbing-with-audrey-sniezek]with Audrey Sniezek [http://audreysniezek.wordpress.com/]. Audrey is a program manager at Microsoft on the

I've been attempting to work on my grips, in addition to strength. Primarily, I've been working on closed-hand (or full-crimp) and pinches. Unfortunately, my hangboard [http://xdumaine.com/the-blank-slate-hangboard/] doesn't provide a great place for either one. It does have some pretty small lips,